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ISLAND PEAK (6,160m)


This is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar separated by a small col. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak. The extension of this ridge descending southwest is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads to the South Summit. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.

South East Flank & South-West Ridge

Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not be forgotten that the place is more likely for avalanche in the event of heavy snowfall. From the base camp, an well-acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer alpine stylecamping at high camp, which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts southeast around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier (5, 280m). From the high camp, the left hands ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing.


Itinerary

Day 01

  Khamandu - Lukla by flight. Trek to Phakding.

Day 02

  Namche Bazaar.

Day 03

  Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization.

Day 04

  Khumjung.

Day 05

  Dole.

Day 06

  Machermo.

Day 07

  Gokyo - Gokyo Ri - Na.

Day 08

  Pangboche.

Day 09

  Phortse.

Day 10

  Chhukhung.

Day 11

  Island Peak Base Camp.

Day 12

  Rest at Base Camp

Day 13

  High Camp.

Day 14

  Summit - Chhukhung.

Day 15

  Dingboche.

Day 16

  Tengboche.

Day 17

  Namche Bazaar.

Day 18

  Lukla.

Day 19

  Lukla - Kathmandu by flight.

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Royalty for Peaks arrow Peaks Opened by N.M.A.
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For more information on this trek please contact us
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